🔗 Share this article

When curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.